Lake George panorama

Lake George from Shelving Rock Mountain

It was a nice weekend afternoon, so my wife and I decided to hike up Shelving Rock Mountain (along with 25 lbs of wiggling one year old on my back).  We have hiked there before, and observed a great view, but missed the even better unobstructed panoramic view of Lake George and the Adirondacks only a short walk away.  Because I was carrying my son on my back, I opted to go light on the camera gear and only had a 50mm lens.  That wasn’t going to stop me from capturing the view! 27 shots (9×3) and 120mp later, and I had the shot you see here.

original stitched photo

I assembled the panorama with Photoshop CS5 and then had to cut it down to 1/4 the original size in order to work with it because my machine was so bogged down.  There were a few edges that didn’t quite get filled in and content aware fill really saved the day here.  In retrospect, while it would have been nice to have had a wide lens up there, I’m glad I took the 50 because it forced me to think a little creatively to come up with the shot I wanted.

If you want to see some stunning panoramic photography of the Adirondack region  I suggest you check out Carl Heilman.  I have one of his works hanging on my living room wall.

Share

Kilroy was Here

Kilroy was HereJohn is 7.5 months old and is now pulling himself up onto his legs in his crib and his play area. How did I take this shot? I dropped the mattress in the crib by 8 inches and John just stood up and started making like Kilroy.

Ok, so I might have grabbed a flash (Canon 430EX) and stuck it on a light stand with a shoot-through umbrella up high and camera right. You can tell by looking at the catch light in his eyes what kind of light modifier was used. In fact, at 100%, you can see the ribs of the umbrella. The strobe was on 1/8″ power and I was shooting my Canon EF50mm f/1.8 at f/5. The camera was on ISO 400. It took exactly 2 shots to lock in the exposure. So far, in my experience, light meters are completely useless.

I edited the photo in Adobe Lightroom and used the same techniques as in my post on “Great Eyes in Lightroom.” I did do a bunch of spot work with the Spot Healing tool in Lightroom, and then I did a little bit of cloning in Photoshop CS4 afterwards. Basically, I edited out a few blemishes and some left over pears from his dinner.

He’s mobile and ready to start walking. It’s going to be a whole new world now.

Share

Great Eyes in Lightroom

Turtle Truck“Where’d Aaron go?”

“Here I am!”

Anyone who has played peekaboo with their kid will probably recognize the above exchange.  It’s been seven months since I last updated the blog (Why do I feel like I’m going into a confession booth or something?) and the picture here should explain why.  That’s my son, John, born May 7th, 2009.   With the new addition to the household has come a big change in my photographic focus.  I barely ever have a lens other than the Canon EF 50mm/1.8 on  anymore.  It’s just the right focal length for  portraits of my little guy and I can take indoor shots at ISO 1600 at f/1.8 with a nice shallow depth of field.  I have also been playing around with off camera lighting a lot recently.  Most of the time I keep one flash on a stand with an umbrella ready to go and one bare.  I’ve gotten pretty decent at guessing the right settings to use to get the effect I want.  This shot of my son with his Turtle Truck (and his tongue hanging out) is an example where I just grabbed two flashes and started playing.  You can see from the catch-lights in his eyes that I have two strobes set up, one small (or far away) and one larger (or closer).  In this case, it was a shoot-through umbrella camera right and a bare strobe camera left for fill.

Just a little droolBut this post isn’t about lighting.  It’s about Lightroom.  With the thousands of pictures I’ve taken of my son, I’ve managed to figure out a few quick and dirty tricks to edit these pictures fairly quickly.  Since the eyes are the window to the soul, it is critical that they “pop.”  Most of my editing involves getting the eyes to look great without looking unnatural.  Of course, the process begins when you are taking the shot – put that focus point right on the eye nearest to you. If you didn’t get the focus right on the eyes in your original exposure, no amount of post-processing will help and  you might as well just try again.  Note, this is easier said than done with a 6 month old who is learning to crawl and thinks that the big box in front of Daddy’s face is oh so interesting.

After adjusting exposure and getting rid of any obvious blemishes with the healing tool, I do a few things:

  • Soften skin by lowering Clarity to approximately  -15.  Clarity adjusts the edge contrast and lowering it has the effect of softening skin.  Raising it brings out the blemishes.
  • Add a sharpen mask – I zoom in on the eyes then hold down the Option key (Mac) and drag the Masking slider around until the skin texture isn’t being affected and only the eyes are showing with white lines in them.  Holding down the option key shows you a gray-scale version of the sharpening mask being used – light areas will be sharpened and dark areas will not.   Masking basically sets the threshold for when sharpening will be applied.   By moving the mask slider (with the option key pressed) until skin texture isn’t being affected, you are essentially applying the sharpening only to the areas where you want it.   I tend to apply the mask in the 80-100 range, which filters out most skin textures.
  • Sharpening

  • Sharpen – This is where things begin to really pop off the screen.  You’ve set up your skin to be nice and soft and masked off the areas you don’t want affected.  Now drag that sharpening slider to the right.  Keep going.  A little more.  Yup, that’s it.  With the masking set to affect such a small area, you can afford to apply a liberal dose of sharpening.  I will often have my sharpening set in the 80-110 range.  You’ll have to use your judgment, though.  If it looks unnatural, back it off a little, or increase the mask a bit more.
  • Make the colors pop – Now play with the Vibrance setting to really make the eye color pop.  You can also use the selective saturation controls and select a color from the eye.  I like using Vibrance because it only adjusts colors that aren’t already saturated resulting in a much more natural look.

One of the failings of Lightroom is that you can’t actually see the results of your work unless you are zoomed in, which is probably not how you will eventually be viewing the image.  So, there is a little of trial and error involved and may result in you exporting your image a few times. I understand that this will be rectified in Adobe Lightroom 3 (now in beta).  In the end, with a well exposed, correctly focused picture, this recipe should get you some pretty decent eyes without having to have 15 different layers set up in Photoshop.

That’s all for now.  Let me know if there is a topic you would like me to write about in the future!

Share

Unguarded Waterfront – make that Snowfront

Unguarded SnowfrontMy wife and I went out for a little walk at Cochituate State Park last weekend. She’s 7 months pregnant right now, so we’re not hiking any mountains these days, but do like to get out and see some nature still. Cochituate State Park is composed of three ponds separated by the Massachusetts Turnpike (I-90) and surrounded by woods. It’s really a nice place, close to home, where we can walk around in the woods for an hour with pretty scenery. As usual when we go on these walks, I brought my camera along. I don’t often get great shots as we are usually out on beautiful clear days with nice weather where the light is hard and boring. Also, my focus is mostly on family time, not capturing great images, though I do often get some fun family shots that mean a lot to me personally. But, just because a photo has personal meaning, doesn’t mean the rest of the world wants to look at it!

Canon 70-200 f/2.8LI’ve been trying to get the hang of my new Canon 70-200 f/2.8L, so I brought that along. The lake was completely frozen over, with people ice skating at the far end. We took a walk through the woods, and on our way back stopped on the snow covered beach. Here there were 3 lifeguard towers with signs on them indicating that there were no lifeguards and swim at your own risk. I tried to get some shots of the three towers in a line, but just couldn’t capture anything that seemed interesting. Then, I came along the sign that said “Unguarded Waterfront” with a lifeguard tower, frozen lake, and snow-covered beach behind it. It just seemed somewhat ironic and amusing to me.

I was shooting aperture priority mode (Av) at f/3.2 because I wanted the sign in clear focus with the background blurry, but still slightly identifiable. As it turns out, I am kicking myself for not trying something with a smaller aperture, as the sign on the lifeguard tower is completely indecipherable. If I went back, I’d probably choose f/8 so that the background was a little more identifiable. Because I was shooting a primarily snow-covered scene, I dialed in a slight bit of exposure compensation (EV) – +1/3 stop. Camera meters take what they see and assume that the entire scene would average out to be 18% neutral gray. This is normally a decent assumption and is one of the many reasons why 18% gray cards are used frequently by photographers. Snow isn’t even close to 18% gray – it’s like…2% gray, especially in sunlight. If I were to shoot with no exposure compensation, I’d end up with an underexposed scene because the camera would try to make the snow into gray. I usually have to play with the exposure compensation value a bit to get it right, but as a rule of thumb, when taking pictures of bright snow, bump the EV up a bit, and if taking a picture of your black cat, lower it a bit.

When I downloaded the images last night, I was drawn to this photo. I like the humor of it and I like the way it is framed. What I don’t like, as I mentioned above, is that I chose too shallow a depth of field, so you don’t really know what’s behind the sign. If I had picked something more like f/8 or so, I think the humor would have shined through better.

Here you see the original image, straight out of the camera and imported into Adobe Lightroom. It’s pretty boring. Almost no color, with little texture in the snow, and no contrast in the wood grain. So, I went to work on it. In Lightroom, I adjusted the white balance to 7100K by using the white balance eyedropper tool and selecting the white of the sign. I usually shoot in Auto White Balance mode when I’m shooting in RAW simply because I can easily adjust it later. With JPG, you don’t have as much latitude there. I bumped up the exposure by +1/4 stop and increased the clarity and contrast some. I also set the tone curve to “Strong contrast”. I knew I would be bringing this into Photoshop and sharpening it there, so I lowered the sharpening in Lightroom to 0.

Shack at the Cranberry Factory PondThen, I exported it to Photoshop CS4. There, I applied a very strong unsharp mask to the Lightness channel in LAB Mode. This pulled a lot of texture out of the wood without creating halos and odd colors. I also applied a technique used in a few of my other images (as in the one shown here) where I duplicated the background layer, desaturated it, and set the blend mode to Overlay with about a 60% opacity. This has the effect of really kicking up the contrast and making a dull image pop a lot more. The reason for the desaturation is otherwise, you end up altering the colors of the image as well. I also did a slight crop of the image, removing the fence visible in the bottom of the frame, and did some slight adjustment with a levels layer – moving the middle slider to the left to increase contrast. Finally, I added a saturation layer and lowered the saturation of the image by about -50. This had the effect of making it almost black and white, but not quite. Then, I saved it, and exported it to Flickr from Lightroom with medium sharpening.

That was a lot of editing for a mediocre photo, but I’m fairly happy with the way it came out. I’m always trying to stretch myself creatively and in this case I think I had a partial success in doing something slightly out of my normal comfort zone of landscapes.

Leave me a comment and let me know what you think!

Share

Photographing Animals at the Zoo [Part 2] – Lemurs!!

LemurErik, Matt, and I went to the Franklin Park Zoo last weekend. Previously, I wrote a post about taking shots of the resident lion at the zoo. After meandering around the zoo for a while, we went to the Tropical Forest. Dressed in our winter garb, complete with hats, gloves, and scarves to combat the 20 degree weather and 25 mph winds, we entered the warm, humid Tropical Forest.

LemurWhere I was able to shoot at 1/1000″ at f/2.8 and ISO 200 outside, inside was another matter. I walked around for awhile, checking out the Gorillas, various birds, some hog-like creature, and various other animals when I found the lemurs. A whole bunch of them. Though their environment was naturally lit via skylights, it was still pretty dang dark, and behind a thick pane of reflective glass. I immediately knew I would have to start shooting at ISO 1600. Knowing we were going inside, I had borrowed Erik’s monopod, so thankfully I would be able to keep my non-IS Canon 70-200 f/2.8L lens steady. Recall from the previous post that at a minimum, one needs to shoot at 1/efl (effective focal length) if hand-holding a camera. Using a monopod greatly reduces that requirement, though and I was able to shoot down to 1/30″ and still get sharp pictures, even at 200mm. I was still shooting Aperture Priority Mode with Exposure Compensation to +1/3 stop on my Canon Rebel XTi/400D at f/2.8 to let enough light in and to get a nice shallow depth of field. When I started shooting these rapidly moving little buggers, I was getting between 1/30″ and 1/60″ for a shutter speed! That’s a full 7-8 stops darker than what I was finding outside. Thank goodness for that monopod and fast lens!

[tangent]
When I used to shoot with my Canon S2 IS point and shoot camera, I wouldn’t even bother taking a shot if I had to go over ISO 200 and ISO 400 was a grainy mess. The world of DSLRs changes that. Now, I don’t hesitate to shoot at ISO 1600. Heck, ISO 400 is kind of my starting point and I adjust from there. Sure, 800 and 1600 are noisier than lower ISO settings, but if you get a good exposure, exposing to the right, the noise is not objectionable at all, especially once you take a 10mp image and reduce it to an 800×600 image on the screen. Even printed 8×10″, the noise just doesn’t really show up….if you got the exposure right. I can’t emphasize this enough – an under exposed low ISO image will have more objectionable noise than a well exposed high ISO image. So, if the light gets low and bumping up the ISO will allow you to get a better exposure, don’t be afraid. I tell you, a blurry, dark ISO 400 shot is going to look a heck of a lot worse than a sharp ISO 1600 shot. Plus, if you’re using flash, you’ll be able to capture some of the environment and not just end up with a blown out head sticking out of a black hole.
[/tangent]

Lemur
Now the problem wasn’t camera shake, it was getting the lemurs to stand still long enough to shoot them at such a slow shutter speed. 1/30″ – 1/60″ is just too slow to capture rapidly moving primates swinging from trees and chasing their friends. I quickly gave up on trying to catch these guys running around playing, so I started focusing on the little guys eating lunch. Did I mention that they were also behind glass? So, I got down low to the floor, got my lens as close to the glass as I could (to eliminate glare) as much as possible, and went to work. Because of the large aperture, long focal lengths, close shooting distances, and subsequently shallow depth of field, I ended up with a lot of well framed shots where a nose, or a claw, or an ear was in crisp focus, but the eyes were not. It doesn’t matter if it’s an animal or a human, a portrait just doesn’t work if the eyes are not in focus. If you can’t get both eyes in focus, the near eye really needs to be in sharp focus. Also, because of the slow shutter speeds and the spastic creatures, I ended up with a lot of pictures where the fur on the body and arms was in crisp focus, but the head was a blurry mess as they moved their heads around. Again, focusing on the slow moving, feeding lemurs was the way to go and I got several decent shots.

LemurSweating from our winter garb in a tropical environment, we packed up at closing time when the zoo staff kicked us out. When I got home and downloaded the images into Lightroom (after some warm Tazo Chai…mmmmm), I flagged the ones I liked, deleted the total losers (out of focus, blurry, etc), and keyworded them. The lion picture from the last post took a lot of post processing work to get it to pop, but these lemur pictures came out of the camera almost like you see them. For a few of them, I had to bump up the exposure 1/3 of a stop or so. Because I was shooting through glass…again…there was a little loss of contrast, so I bumped up the black level a little bit, as well as the contrast and vibrance. Then, I exported them straight to flickr and Facebook with sharpening set to high, using Jeffrey Friedl’s Facebook and Flickr plugins for Lightroom.

Did you learn something? Have some questions? Am I full of it? Do you hate my photos and wish I’d shut up about them? Let me know by posting in the comments!

Back to Part 1

Share